The Quiet Harbor: Centerport's Place on Washington's Spy Trail

by Douglass Gillespie

 

A small boat crossing calm, fog-covered water at dawn on Long Island Sound
Washington's Spy Trail — Local History Series

The Quiet Harbor: Centerport's Place on Washington's Spy Trail

A small North Shore hamlet never hid a single spy — but understanding its part in the story makes the whole trail easier to read.

Not every important stop on a journey announces itself with a plaque. Some of the most useful places are the ones you simply pass through on the way to somewhere louder — and Centerport, New York, is exactly that kind of place in the story historians now call Washington's Spy Trail.

Centerport never hid a courier in its cellar or passed a coded letter across a moonlit yard. What it offers instead is context. This harbor hamlet on Long Island's North Shore sits along the same water, the same road, and the same quiet rhythm of daily life that made the extraordinary work of the Culper Spy Ring possible a few miles down the coast. If you're trying to make sense of this history — or you're simply planning a drive along Route 25A on a Saturday afternoon — knowing where Centerport fits into the larger picture makes the rest of the trail click into place.

 

What "Washington's Spy Trail" Actually Refers To

The name covers two overlapping stories laid over one road. Route 25A, from Great Neck to Port Jefferson, was designated the Long Island Heritage Trail and, informally, the Washington Spy Trail, because it traces the route George Washington traveled by carriage in 1790 as the newly elected president touring Long Island. That same stretch of shoreline, a decade earlier, was also home to the members of the Culper Spy Ring — the Revolutionary War intelligence network Washington himself had commissioned.

The Culper Ring, in Brief

In 1778, Washington asked Major Benjamin Tallmadge, a young officer originally from Setauket, to build a spy network capable of tracking British movements in and around occupied New York City. Tallmadge turned to childhood friends: Abraham Woodhull (alias "Samuel Culper Sr.") gathered intelligence on Long Island, Robert Townsend (alias "Samuel Culper Jr.") did the same inside Manhattan, and Caleb Brewster ferried messages by whaleboat across the Sound to Connecticut, where Tallmadge relayed them to Washington. Anna Strong reportedly used the color and arrangement of laundry on her clothesline to signal Brewster's movements. The ring operated for roughly five years without a single member ever being publicly unmasked.

One Road, Two Very Different Stories

It's a small irony worth sitting with: the road now named for Washington's spy network wasn't actually the spies' road. It was Washington's own postwar sightseeing route, laid a decade after the war ended, that happened to pass directly through the towns where his intelligence operation had quietly done its work. The trail we drive today is really a modern thread tying both stories together.

An antique compass resting on a weathered map, evoking the routes and coastlines of the Culper Spy Ring
Photo: Denise Jans / Unsplash

Centerport's Particular Role Along the Route

Centerport is a hamlet within the town of Huntington, on the affluent stretch of Long Island's North Shore long known as the Gold Coast. It was originally called Little Cow Harbor before taking its current name in the 1830s, a nod to its position roughly midway between Huntington's eastern and western boundaries. Unlike Setauket or Oyster Bay, Centerport isn't tied to a specific Culper Ring agent or documented operation. Its role in this history is geographic rather than operational: it's a waypoint on the corridor, a place where the trail's story pauses to let visitors catch their breath between the more heavily documented sites.

The Vanderbilt Museum and the Gold Coast Chapter

Centerport's best-known landmark is the Vanderbilt Museum at Eagle's Nest, the Spanish-Revival estate built by William K. Vanderbilt II overlooking Centerport Harbor. It has nothing to do with the Revolutionary War directly — the Gold Coast mansion era arrived well over a century later — but it anchors Centerport firmly on the modern heritage trail, giving travelers a reason to stop, look out over the water, and imagine the same harbor two centuries earlier, before wealth and leisure reshaped its shoreline.

A Harbor Built for Quiet Crossings

What Centerport does share with the true Culper sites is geography. Its harbor is an inlet of Long Island Sound, cut into the same kind of coves and low bluffs that gave Caleb Brewster's whaleboat crews the cover they needed to cross unseen at night. You don't need a specific historical event tied to this particular inlet to understand why this coastline mattered: the whole North Shore, Centerport included, was built by nature to hide small boats and quiet movement. That's the terrain that made the Culper Ring's work possible in the first place.

History rarely divides itself neatly into important towns and unimportant ones. It divides into places where something happened, and places that quietly made it possible for something to happen nearby.
The Route 25A Corridor, West to East
Great Neck
Oyster Bay
Cold Spring Harbor
Centerport
Northport
Setauket
Stony Brook
Port Jefferson

Why This Kind of Local History Is Worth Knowing

I spent twenty-five years teaching students to look past the headline event and ask what surrounded it. The same habit is useful when you're getting to know a town — or thinking about moving to one. A house is never just the house. It's the porch light your new neighbor leaves on, the walk to the corner store, the school down the block, the quiet street that makes the loud one bearable. Understanding a town's full backstory, including the parts that never made the history books, tells you something about its character that a listing sheet never will.

That's just as true here in Essex County. Towns like Bloomfield, Montclair, Glen Ridge, Nutley, Verona, Cedar Grove, Belleville, Maplewood, South Orange, and West Orange each carry their own layered histories, some well documented, some quieter. None of them need to be the most talked-about town on the map to be worth understanding thoroughly before you settle in.

A Teacher's Note

When my students researched a historical event, I always asked them to map the surrounding towns first — not because those towns were the subject, but because context changes how you read everything else. The same approach works well for house hunting: understand the neighborhood's full shape before you fall in love with one address inside it.

If You Want to Trace the Trail Yourself

  • Start in Great Neck and follow Route 25A east — it's the same road Washington traveled in 1790.
  • Stop at Raynham Hall Museum in Oyster Bay, once home to Culper agent Robert Townsend.
  • Pause in Centerport for the Vanderbilt Museum and a look out over the harbor itself.
  • Continue to Setauket for the Brewster House and Thompson House, the ring's true home base.
  • End in Port Jefferson, where a full-scale whaleboat replica now honors Caleb Brewster's crossings.
  • Give yourself a full day. The drive itself takes under an hour; the history is worth slowing down for.

How the Key Stops Compare

Town Its Role in the Culper Story What You Can Visit Today
Setauket Home base for Woodhull, Roe, Brewster, and Tallmadge himself Brewster House, Thompson House, Conscience Bay coves
Oyster Bay Robert Townsend's family home, later a British headquarters Raynham Hall Museum
Centerport Waypoint on the modern heritage corridor, not a documented operation site Vanderbilt Museum at Eagle's Nest, Centerport Harbor
Port Jefferson Symbolic home of Brewster's whaleboat crossings today Whaleboat 1776 replica, Bayles Boat Shop
 

What Centerport Teaches Us About Overlooked Value

Centerport isn't where the drama happened. It's where the drama's setting continues quietly on, largely unchanged in spirit even as the shoreline filled in with sailboats and summer homes instead of whaleboats and coded letters. That's a useful reminder for anyone evaluating a town, a block, or a house: the most important places aren't always the ones with the longest historical marker. Sometimes they're the ones that simply held their ground while everything more famous happened nearby.

A quiet suburban street lined with mature trees and family homes
The same principle applies close to home: a neighborhood's quieter streets often carry as much long-term value as its landmarks.

In Short

Centerport, NY didn't host a Culper Ring agent or a documented spy operation. Its role is as a connecting point on the modern Route 25A heritage corridor — sharing the same North Shore geography, harbor character, and historical backdrop that made the Culper Ring's work possible a short drive away. The lesson translates well beyond Long Island: understanding a place fully, including its quieter chapters, is how you come to actually know it.

Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly was the Culper Spy Ring?
A network of civilian informants organized in 1778 by Major Benjamin Tallmadge at George Washington's request. Working across Long Island, British-occupied New York City, and Connecticut, the ring supplied intelligence on British troop movements for roughly five years without a single member being unmasked.
Was Centerport a site of actual Culper Ring spy operations?
No. Documented Culper Ring activity centered on Setauket, Oyster Bay, and New York City, with couriers crossing the Sound to Connecticut. Centerport's place in the story is as a waypoint along the modern Washington Spy Trail corridor, sharing the same coastal geography as the historic sites.
Why is Route 25A called Washington's Spy Trail if his 1790 tour happened after the war?
The name honors two overlapping stories on one road: Washington's 1790 carriage tour of Long Island as president, and the wartime Culper Spy Ring whose members lived and worked along that same North Shore corridor a decade earlier.
What can visitors actually see in Centerport related to this history today?
The main draw is the Vanderbilt Museum at Eagle's Nest, overlooking Centerport Harbor. It postdates the Revolution but anchors Centerport along the same heritage trail as the earlier Culper Ring sites nearby.
Is this kind of local history relevant to buying a home nearby?
It can be. Understanding a town's full backstory, not just its current listings, often explains why a neighborhood feels the way it does and what long-term character a buyer is actually purchasing into.

Wondering What This Means for You?

Every buyer and seller's situation is unique. Rather than relying on averages or headlines, let's look at your specific goals, your timeline, your neighborhood, and the numbers that matter most to you. Whether you're buying your first home, preparing to sell, or simply weighing your options, I'm happy to provide straightforward guidance with no pressure and no obligation.

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Douglass Gillespie

REALTOR® · NJ Area Leader · Brookdale Home Advisor, Essex County · EPIQUE Realty

Douglass helps buyers, sellers, and downsizers move confidently throughout Essex County, drawing on more than 25 years as a New Jersey high school English teacher to guide clients with patience and clear explanation rather than pressure. He holds the NAR Green Designation and the At Home With Diversity® certification, and serves Bloomfield, Montclair, Glen Ridge, Nutley, Verona, Cedar Grove, and surrounding communities. Reach him at 862.202.4790 or doug.gillespie.realtor@gmail.com.

This article is provided for educational purposes only and should not be considered financial, legal, tax, or mortgage advice. Market conditions change over time, and every situation is unique. Consult the appropriate licensed professionals regarding your specific circumstances.

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